By Em Mills
Soon after Ramy Aly, assistant professor in AUC's Department of Sociology, Anthropology and Egyptology, came to Egypt in 2013, he had his hair loc'd. Locs, an African hair style that involves coiling, braiding, interlocking and palm-rolling hair to create larger strands that merge together over time, have a long history across Africa and particularly in Ancient Egypt. However, as a contemporary Egyptian, Aly's relationship with loc'd hair was not straightforward. His soon-to-be loctician in London Mellissa Blake wasn't sure what to make of him at first. "'You're quite Caucasian, but what's going on with your hair?' Her surprise brought my attention to the notion that hair care is raced, very explicitly."
What does it mean for hair to be "raced"? How can examining hair give insight into how race is conceptualized in Egypt, and how does this differ in a Western context? Unfortunately, there is a lack of scholarship on race that focuses on Egypt and Egyptians specifically in the present. "Race is very meaningful here, although it's not seen to be meaningful. When people study Egypt, they study gender, Islam and class, but they almost never study race outside the context of migration," he says.
A social anthropologist, Aly's current research project seeks to fill some of the gaps in understanding contemporary racial formations in Egypt. He explains that while examining formal settings like the legal system can show researchersreferences to racial discrimination, it doesn't capture the complicated ways in which race impacts life on a social level.
"You can't get an idea of how people sense race, how they live it, how it's entangled in their everyday dealings," he says. "In post-colonial settings, hair has historically served as a marker, or expression, of race. Through studying hair culture, I'm trying to uncover some of the ways race is perceived and experienced in an everyday context."
Hair, Harassment and the Historical Context
Aly experienced mistreatment firsthand on account of the way his hair was perceived in Egypt. But within two years, he started seeing more and more men with loc'd hair and women with naturally curly hair. "At the time, I wondered, why is it more acceptable now? What changed?"
Negative perceptions around loc'd hair are not a new phenomenon: In Egypt, the last 200 years have seen a strong emphasis on "whitening," linking stereotypically white attributes to beauty and respectability. Examples of this show up everywhere, from media to education and advertising. "While researching, I found a handbook from a technical college here in the 1970s giving tips on beauty and hair. As you flick through, the whole emphasis is on looking white," Aly says.
Aesthetically, things like bleaching skin and straightening hair have been encouraged, while physical attributes associated with being Black or
African such as curly or kinky hair are discriminated against and disparaged, impacting everything from family dynamics to the workplace. This brings us back to Aly's question: Why are youth choosing hair to express themselves in this way?
The handbook's cover, which reads Beautification Technology in Arabic, photo by Ahmad El-Nemr
The women's technical college handbook on beauty and hair, photo by Ahmad El-Nemr
The Effect of Pop Culture
"In the early 20th century, there were no associations with success or desirability and Blackness. Today, we see far more famous Sub-Saharan and West African footballers and Black celebrities," Aly says. One contributing factor for Aly lies in the success and popularity of Black celebrities and aesthetics in mainstream popular culture. This can be seen in increasing numbers of public figures, pop stars and athletes who are either Black or visually incorporate traditionally Black cultural elements into their image, such as the Kardashians. The commodification of Black aesthetics in pop culture is in itself problematic, but Aly notes that a secondary effect is leading people around the word who share features such as kinky or curly hair and dark skin tones to begin to embrace them as well.
In order to learn more, Aly conducted interviews both in person and online. Attempting to collect a broad range of input, he situated himself in various places in Maadi, talking with groups of young people, whom he found largely willing to participate. He also spoke with hair studio owners who braided or loc'd in a variety of neighborhoods to try and access people across socioeconomic backgrounds.
Another interesting thread that Aly found through his research was that many of the young people he spoke to were increasingly willing to identify as African. "It's fascinating because throughout the last 200 years, Egyptian elites have always rejected being African. They looked northward for a sense of identity, never south," he explains. "Young people are much more comfortable saying, 'Of course we're African; anybody who says that we're not is just deluding themselves.'"
The Cleopatra Question
As more and more people adopt locs and curly hair, and as some redefine their relationship with the idea of Africanness, there are also complex conversations to be held about heritage and authenticity. One question that comes up is the idea of appropriation, which refers to the usage of cultural elements by an individual outside that cultural group in a way that disrespects, exploits or oversimplifies the culture itself. This is most relevant when members of a dominant culture appropriate from a marginalized one.
"When discussing appropriation, the response immediately becomes, 'I'm Egyptian. I can't appropriate because I'm African, and besides, ancient Egyptians had braided and wooly hair,'" Aly says. "It's actually quite rare in an Egyptian context to see people borrowing from the ancient past, but when it comes to cultural appropriation, the pharaohs suddenly come out to play."
While Western scholarship tends to focus on a Black/white binary, that framework doesn't function well in a context like Egypt, where the majority of people are racially mixed. "Even in families or between siblings, you have people who look darker or lighter, with straight or curly hair. This is why it's important to rethink how race operates in Egypt," Aly says.
When people study Egypt, they study gender, Islam and class, but they almost never study race outside the context of migration.
Alongside appropriation, the idea of authenticity is also important, whether in being authentic to one's natural hair texture, cultural heritage or oneself by expressing resistance to societal expectations and pressures. It has also been a controversial topic in the context of representations of ancient Egypt in popular culture, with race being a persistent element of the conversation.
"Take the Cleopatra question, for example," Aly says, referencing the Netflix docuseries Queen Cleopatra that sparked debate over its casting of a Black, biracial actress in the titular role. "People didn't mind Cleopatra being played by Elizabeth Taylor, though historical accounts of Cleopatra don't fit into the frame of her version at all. But there was no outcry at the time because she's white," he continues. "There's real resistance to seeing Cleopatra portrayed as brown even in a dramatized work, which is part of what I'm interested in unpacking."
What Does Hair Mean to You?
Aly's interlocutors shared different reasons behind embracing Black
body aesthetics, these range from an expression of identity to an assertion of autonomy, resisting societal and familial expectations. There's no one big answer to any of these questions. Everything connects, and the complexity is what makes it necessary to discuss.
"It's important to think about culture in terms of global flow and these must be thought of in relation to history and power. You can't exclude ancient Egypt, the whitening of Egyptian history, the rise of African-American celebrity culture, or the commodification and industrialization of football. They're all important," Aly says.
At the end of the day, every individual has a different reason for expressing themselves through their hair, and they don't always align with a broader social question. As a social scientist, Aly emphasizes that it's important to resist the temptation to organize and theorize people into something neat. In reality, it's never that straightforward. "The challenge of anthropology is that you have to work with what people do and say, not what you want them to do and say," says Aly. "You have to be creative and really listen to what people are telling you."
Photos by Ahmad El-Nemr